introduction: T3 ( Textiles Techniques and Technology )

 

 

This CD-rom showcases the results of the Textiles, Techniques and Technology ( T3 ) research project undertaken by four members of the Fashion and Textiles B.A.Hons. teaching staff at Central Saint Martins:

Malcolm Cocks (team leader), Rosemary House , Sue Jenkyn Jones and Jayne Sanderson.

The project was undertaken over a two year period (1995-'97) mostly as part-time practice.

 

Each member of the team had specific expertise in one of the textile disciplines but variable computer skills. All began with the recognition that computer-aided design (CAD)and computer-aided manufacture(CAM) were well developed; in fact a jungle of different systems and software. Whilst an aspect of the collaboration required them to survey and analyse existing products the primary focus of the project was to reach a greater understanding of the creative potential of CAD/CAM through a multi-disciplinary approach that encompassed weaving, printing and knitting. The goal was to challenge the typical use of computer systems which lean heavily on the ‘ grafted fruits’ that are made possible as a result of the computers speed and accuracy of translation of image to design and design to production.

An important aspect of the research project has been the alliances forged with the computing and textile industries. The cost to educational establishments of purchasing production machinery for sampling is prohibitive. Setting up machinery is time consuming and requires technical expertise and back up resources. Through the generosity of our sponsors we have been allowed to pursue, investigate and experiment with digital technology. This association has been fruitful to both parties in the dissemination of ideas and developments and in many cases promises to extend beyond the duration of the project. Collaborations are important to education and colleges, in particular post-graduate courses have in place the mechanisms for creative design research to synthesize with the productive skills of industry.

 

With changing employment patterns and the continuing development of design, manufacture and presentation technology there will be a future demand for designers with flexibility and transferable skills across the main areas of textile design - for range building, co-ordination and cost consistency. Designers will not only need to be conversant with CAD/CAM but also creatively aware ofits advantages and limitations.

In their multi-disciplinary approach the team has pioneered this frontier. The distinct creative flexibilities unique to both individual disciplines and computers were merged, played out in layer after layer of digital experiments and hand-made trial pieces. Their creators’ tactile and aesthetic responses led them to see more possibilities, to build new links between design processes, the efficiencies of computers and the freedoms and rigours inherent in different forms of production.

A particularly challenging aspect of this exploration of the boundaries between printing, knitting and weaving has been the development of the translation of ideas across the disciplines through the computer. The shared vision was an acknowledgement of the importance of the tactile and surface qualities of fabric and cloth structure rather than the typically smooth rendition of computer graphics applied to a flat surface. Chosen inspirational sources were appropriate for and about textiles rather than digitised imagery. Whilst conventional techniques and materials formed an essential part of the exploratory process the experimentation took place in the lacuna between the traditional and the technological.

The results you see are not always resolved or finished pieces nor allied to any particular commercial or end use but an expression of that journey into the landscape of light, shade, density, fluidity and texture - the pleasures of fabric.

 

 

T3 Ph2 ( Textiles Techniques and Technology - Phase Two )

 

As a result of their enthusiasm for their discoveries during the T3 project the team proposed that it would be useful to measure the current awareness and assimilation of the digital revolution within the textile design community, especially amongst freelance designers and studios in the U.K. but also for some comparability with practitioners worldwide.

A preliminary excursion down this route led to the realisation that a far greater communication between all parties was desirable and to this end further research was proposed .

Phase Two ( Ph2 ) two of the research project was undertaken over one year (1977) as a survey into the current practices and interest in CAD/CAM in the textile design industry

( esp U.K.) with a view to the feasibility of producing software to aid the communication and transfer of designs and discussion between textile designers, agents and manufacturing companies.

This phase was led by Sue Jenkyn Jones and assisted by research fellow Ben Parish.